I'm not sure you know how it works, since you ask which is best, so here it is :
Speed (km/h) = 60 x wheel perimeter (m) x number of RPM x number teeth on the chain ring used / number of teeth on the cassette ring used / 1000
No offence if you already knew that.
So, when we write or say 39x28, it's actually 39/28.
To mount a cassette yourself, you need special tools. They're specific, which means you can't do it with a random wrench, etc. That's why you might need the bike shop, or an extra investment, plus figuring out "how to".
Maybe you should consider changing your crankset as well, and go for a triple (34/42/50 or something), then you could use a 11/28 cassette. I know triples look more amateurish or tourist-like, but there's less shame using a triple than climbing on your feet or struggling with too big gears.
Also, if you're not sure, go for the 32, because spending a week there with a gear that's too big for you could spoil the fun, whereas you could afford to only use a 29 or 30 if you're strong enough.
Last thing : you don't need a 11, unless you use a triple. Let that to the pros. Just do the math at 90 RPM with 52x11 and see at what speed you should ride to really use it.
You should have a 12/something, that'd save you one intermediate ring on your cassette, that you might have a better usage of.
Aquarius wrote:
I'm not sure you know how it works, since you ask which is best, so here it is :
Speed (km/h) = 60 x wheel perimeter (m) x number of RPM x number teeth on the chain ring used / number of teeth on the cassette ring used / 1000
No offence if you already knew that.
So, when we write or say 39x28, it's actually 39/28.
To mount a cassette yourself, you need special tools. They're specific, which means you can't do it with a random wrench, etc. That's why you might need the bike shop, or an extra investment, plus figuring out "how to".
Maybe you should consider changing your crankset as well, and go for a triple (34/42/50 or something), then you could use a 11/28 cassette. I know triples look more amateurish or tourist-like, but there's less shame using a triple than climbing on your feet or struggling with too big gears.
Also, if you're not sure, go for the 32, because spending a week there with a gear that's too big for you could spoil the fun, whereas you could afford to only use a 29 or 30 if you're strong enough.
Last thing : you don't need a 11, unless you use a triple. Let that to the pros. Just do the math at 90 RPM with 52x11 and see at what speed you should ride to really use it.
You should have a 12/something, that'd save you one intermediate ring on your cassette, that you might have a better usage of.
As always thanks for your deep insight in everything that goes on in this world champ
Back to your post. Im not having a cadence calculator (yet), so cant give you any specific number :/
The thing about changing my crankset is that its way too expensive, right?
Something about 500 euro (i could buy a new bike instead)
I can tell you that i definately are going to improve a lot over the next year. I will loose between 5-10kg and get between 1000-3000 km of riding in my legs so i am gonna be ready.
But i can conclude that from the hill im training at, that i am never going to do Alpe D'Huez and Mount Ventoux with the current gearing. When i hit the 8-12 percents my legs are going to be teared a part after a couple of of hundreds of meters.
For RPM : better than a cadence calculator, just use a watch or bike computer, and count yourself. Not necessarily on a minute, but 15 or 20 seconds is fine, then do the math.
Cranksets are heavily expensive, yes. I paid mine 420 € or something last Winter. Gutted.
The cassette is the part attached to your wheel, so if you keep your 52/39 crankset, your biggest gear will be 52x11, and your smallest one will be 39x32.
I'm not sure a bike shop will be too happy to switch cassettes if you don't buy the cassette at them, but you may always try. Go see them with your back wheel and new cassette, and tell them you need to switch both.
Also, if your current cassette is old, your chain might be old too, and it's going to jump everywhere with a new cassette. Plus the might become too short and/or too tensed, because of the biggest ring.
Plus there's one thing I didn't ask : you must ensure there are as many rings on the cassette you want to buy and on the current one. Otherwise it won't work well.
For me it seems like alot to change you gearing unless you are expecting to ride mountains regularly Ybodonk. I have the same gearing as you, and the flat terrain in Denmark I guess you often use the high gears. I'm guessing since you riding with Shimano Sora, you bike isn't that expensive as well . I'm also planing a trip to the mountains in Switzerland, and am going to ride with the normal gearing. Have also done it before , so unless you are hiting Monte Zoncolan, it's not impossible. But i guess the option with using triple cranksets would be the smartest i think. But then again Aquaris seems to have the knowledge
What hill is it on the picture at the top?
Aquarius wrote:
For RPM : better than a cadence calculator, just use a watch or bike computer, and count yourself. Not necessarily on a minute, but 15 or 20 seconds is fine, then do the math.
Cranksets are heavily expensive, yes. I paid mine 420 € or something last Winter. Gutted.
The cassette is the part attached to your wheel, so if you keep your 52/39 crankset, your biggest gear will be 52x11, and your smallest one will be 39x32.
I'm not sure a bike shop will be too happy to switch cassettes if you don't buy the cassette at them, but you may always try. Go see them with your back wheel and new cassette, and tell them you need to switch both.
Also, if your current cassette is old, your chain might be old too, and it's going to jump everywhere with a new cassette. Plus the might become too short and/or too tensed, because of the biggest ring.
Plus there's one thing I didn't ask : you must ensure there are as many rings on the cassette you want to buy and on the current one. Otherwise it won't work well.
The bike is like 2 weeks old so everything is "new".
Just tell me the exact combination and words i have to tell. Then i will go down to the shop and tell them what you said.
Maybe a little help.
When i ride on a plain road i always ride on the two lowest gear on the big blade/teeth (didnt know how to translate). Im dont like the big gears.
And on the 8-12 percent climbs i ride at the absolute lowest gear on the low blade/teeths.
This info should help you to tell me which combo you think i should use.
DanielKejlberg wrote:
For me it seems like alot to change you gearing unless you are expecting to ride mountains regularly Ybodonk. I have the same gearing as you, and the flat terrain in Denmark I guess you often use the high gears. I'm guessing since you riding with Shimano Sora, you bike isn't that expensive as well . I'm also planing a trip to the mountains in Switzerland, and am going to ride with the normal gearing. Have also done it before , so unless you are hiting Monte Zoncolan, it's not impossible. But i guess the option with using triple cranksets would be the smartest i think. But then again Aquaris seems to have the knowledge
What hill is it on the picture at the top?
Hi Daniel i assume that you are a dane too
Yeah you are right about the flat terrain, however im not riding that fast on flat/plain terrain. 25kmph on 40km trip. Im always using the lowest gear on the big blade (klinge in danish, dont know how to translate it)
Yeah you are right, its not that expensive. I havent been riding in 7years, and im just starting to get back in the game. And im still a student, so i didnt have that much money to buy a very good bike :/
But it is conclusive that i will never complete 8-12 % for lets say 10+km in a rowe with my current gears.
So i really need way lower gears , then i wont have any problems. I still have my mountain talent in me
Generally using low gears to have a comfortable ride with a "high" cadence".
The hill is Herstedhøje, do you know it ?
- Im there like +3 times a week to train. Its way more fun than just riding on plain road in a lot of hours.
I did train there since i was 10 years old until 15, then now i didnt ride for 7 years.
Edited by Ybodonk on 31-07-2012 19:56
I am also a dane and a student myself, so know just how you feel
I see you point with the gears if you stuggling about 10%.. I think it's also depends on what type of rider you are. Like Wiggins have the high cadence type of riding, but a guy like Cadel Evans ride higher gears with lower cadence instead. And then it of course also depends on you level
Nice hill, like the twisted road.. But since i'm living in Aarhus, i would categorize is as a speed bump
Have you try finding some better hills for you training. Like this on - Also on Sjælland: https://www.climbs...bogeso.php
DanielKejlberg wrote:
I am also a dane and a student myself, so know just how you feel
I see you point with the gears if you stuggling about 10%.. I think it's also depends on what type of rider you are. Like Wiggins have the high cadence type of riding, but a guy like Cadel Evans ride higher gears with lower cadence instead. And then it of course also depends on you level
Nice hill, like the twisted road.. But since i'm living in Aarhus, i would categorize is as a speed bump
Have you try finding some better hills for you training. Like this on - Also on Sjælland: https://www.climbs...bogeso.php
The way im struggling is that i have to "accellerate" and really burn my legs at 10-12 %.
My level will get relatively high ind some months.
Herstedhøje is the hardest hill on Sjælland
If not then i would like you to show me the one which is bigger, higher and tougher.
Its 575 long and avg 6.1 percent however the last 325 has something like 9 % avg
Above mentioned is not just my personal opinion, it is a widely general opinion among people who trains a lot .
I will try that maybe one day, funny its 2.2 % avg. But i guess its the longest hill in denmark hehe
I understand parts of the opinion, but for me it's about the finding a tempo, a consistency, and that is more allowed on a longer hill i think. A hill that gets steeper by the meters is always good. Also hills were you are tried when you hits the steep points. But the idea of finding a rythem, and to ride hills that takes longer than 1-2 minuts is how i train for the mountains.
And with you gearing that is to high on the hill, i guess that is must be better to train on a longer hill that is not that steep? To get the cadence up
DanielKejlberg wrote:
I understand parts of the opinion, but for me it's about the finding a tempo, a consistency, and that is more allowed on a longer hill i think. A hill that gets steeper by the meters is always good. Also hills were you are tried when you hits the steep points. But the idea of finding a rythem, and to ride hills that takes longer than 1-2 minuts is how i train for the mountains.
Yeah it would ofc be way better with longer hils to train cadence, rythm and stamina. But this is just an action place for me. When i was 10 it was the closest i could get to "Alpe D'Huez". It even has 2-3 of the hårnålesving/curves haha.
Training on a long hill with some headwing is very good.
Lets take the 5.75km long 2.2 avg climb and add 9m/s headwind then climb actually feels like 6.2 % . 9m/s headwind = 4 %
I will!
In the middle of October is the plan. Me and 3 friends are going to take the train to Zurich and then sleep at a hostel at the buttom of the mountain.
Are you going to ride both in the alps and in the pyra next sommer?
DanielKejlberg wrote:
I will!
In the middle of October is the plan. Me and 3 friends are going to take the train to Zurich and then sleep at a hostel at the buttom of the mountain.
Are you going to ride both in the alps and in the pyra next sommer?
That sounds like a very nice plan. Switzerland is such a beautifull place, i have a very succesfull uncle there
I hope so, but it depends of which mountains the TDF will ride, and how crashed am gonna be after a completeting the Alps.
Can you give me a more detailed plan of your trip? Maybe i will do the same as training , this year.
Which mountains, and how many of them ? Maybe you have some numbers of the mountains i can check out.
Nice
Well i have a profile, where i measure and plan my trips. Feel free to take a look.
Hah, would be nice meeting you on the top of the mountains!
Glaubenberg was in Tour de Suisses 9th stage this year.
Well I borrowed a cycle last sommer, when my family was in Alanya, Turkey. Cycled one mountain with 8-10% in average for 6-8 km in the middle of the day. In Turkey that's means extreme hot. But else I don't have that much experience
. I'm also planing a trip to the mountains in Switzerland, and am going to ride with the normal gearing. Have also done it before , so unless you are hiting Monte Zoncolan, it's not impossible. But i guess the option with using triple cranksets would be the smartest i think. But then again Aquaris seems to have the knowledge 
